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1. Understanding the specifics of a mountaineering harness
Mountaineering harnesses differ from those used for sport climbing or working at heights. Designed for extreme environments and long durations, it must meet several specific criteria:
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Lightweight and compact: In the high mountains, every gram counts. A lightweight harness reduces fatigue and facilitates movement on difficult terrain. Compactness is also crucial, as the harness often has to be put on or taken off with mountain boots and thick clothing.
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Comfort and mobility: Mountaineers spend long hours with their harnesses, often loaded down with equipment. Comfort is therefore essential, especially in the waistband and leg straps, which must be sufficiently padded without impeding mobility.
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Resistance and durability: materials must be able to withstand rubbing against rock and ice, as well as extreme temperature variations. Tying points and buckles must be particularly sturdy and reliable.
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Versatility and equipment: a mountaineering harness must have multiple gear loops for attaching ice axes, ice screws and other equipment. Ease of adjustment, even with gloves, is a crucial criterion.
2. Selecting a harness according to the type of mountaineering involved
Mountaineering is divided into several specialties, each with its own requirements:
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Glacier mountaineering: For glacier routes, opt for a lightweight, simple harness with just enough gear loops for essential equipment. A back loop for the rope bag can be a plus.
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Mixed technical ascents: Here, a harness with better weight distribution and several sturdy gear loops is a must. Adjustable leg straps are useful for adapting to different layers of clothing.
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High-mountain racing: Choose a heavy-duty harness with extensive adjustment possibilities and multiple attachment points to handle a variety of situations and loads.
3. Detailed selection criteria
Materials and construction
Modern harnesses are generally made of nylon or polyester, with aluminum buckles. Check for reinforced seams and abrasion-resistant materials. Ventilated mesh can also be a criterion for breathability.
Fit and sizing
A harness should fit you perfectly. Test different models with the clothes you'll be wearing on your climbs. Make sure adjustments are simple and can be made quickly.
Safety and certifications
Always check that your harness complies with current safety standards (UIAA or CE standards). Tie-off points must be clearly marked and tested to withstand high loads.
Choosing the right harness for mountaineering is no easy task. It's all about finding a balance between comfort, lightness, strength and functionality, while taking into account the specific type of mountaineering practiced. A well-chosen harness is an investment that not only enhances your enjoyment of the mountains, but also guarantees an indispensable level of safety in this unforgiving environment. Don't hesitate to try out different models and seek professional advice to find the harness that will take you to the summit.
