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Understanding the different types of rope
There are three main types of rope used in mountaineering: single, double and twin. Each type has its own specific features that meet different needs in the mountains.
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Single ropes: These are designed to be used on their own and are generally the thickest, with a diameter generally varying between 9 and 11 mm. These ropes are ideal for ascents where the line of progression is direct, without the need for frequent abseiling or parallel ropes.
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Double ropes: thinner (between 8 and 9 mm in diameter), they are used in pairs, allowing each rope to be clipped alternately into the anchor points to reduce the pull and increase safety in the event of a rock or ice fall on one of the ropes. They are preferable for winding routes, crossings or terrain where the risk of friction on the rope is high.
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Twin ropes: Also used in pairs, but unlike double ropes, the two strands must be clipped together at each anchor point. These are the thinnest ropes, often less than 8 mm, offering appreciable lightness but a lower level of safety than double ropes.
Criteria for selecting a mountaineering rope
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Diameter and weight: The choice of rope diameter will depend on the specific use (single, double or twin) and the compromise between strength and lightness. Thicker ropes are generally more durable and offer better shock absorption, while thinner ones are lighter and easier to handle.
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Length: Rope length should be chosen according to the length of the planned routes. Standard lengths range from 30 to 80 meters. For mountaineering, where abseils may be necessary, a rope of 50 meters or more is often recommended.
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Surface treatment: Surface treatments such as dry-cover or dry-core improve the rope's resistance to water and dirt, essential in icy or damp environments. A treated rope will be more durable and better able to maintain its performance in difficult conditions.
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Shock resistance: This criterion indicates the energy the rope can absorb before breaking. A rope with good shock resistance offers greater safety in climbing falls.
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Number of falls held: This is an indicator of the rope's durability in the face of repeated falls. A mountaineering rope must be able to withstand several severe falls.
Maintenance and safety tips
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Regular inspection: Before and after every outing, thoroughly inspect your rope for cuts, fraying or stiff spots. Visual and tactile inspection can reveal hidden internal damage.
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Proper storage: Store your rope in a dry place away from direct sunlight. Avoid leaving it near chemicals or sources of heat.
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Handling and use: Always exercise caution when using rope. Avoid running it over sharp edges, and use rope guards when necessary.
In conclusion, the selection of a rope for mountaineering should be guided by a clear understanding of your specific needs, taking into account the type of mountaineering practiced, environmental conditions and your own skill level. Investing in the right rope will not only increase your safety, but also your enjoyment of the mountains.
