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1. Understanding the components of a quickdraw
A quickdraw is made up of two carabiners connected by a strap. Each component has its own specific features, which you need to know in order to make an informed choice:
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Carabiners: There are two main types - wire-finger and solid-finger. Wiregate carabiners are generally lighter and less likely to open under vibration. Solid-finger carabiners are often considered sturdier and easier to handle, especially when wearing gloves. The shape of carabiners (straight, curved or asymmetrical) also influences ease of use and quickdraw specialization.
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Webbing: Quickdraws can vary in length, generally between 10 and 25 centimeters. A longer strap can help reduce rope pull, which is particularly useful on long or overhanging routes. Materials also vary, with nylon or dyneema straps, the latter being lighter and less elastic.
2. Choosing according to climbing style
Your choice of quickdraws should be adapted to the type of climbing you do:
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Sport climbing: For sport climbing, where lightness and quick handling are paramount, opt for lightweight quickdraws with wiregate carabiners. Straps should be short enough to avoid excessive movement.
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Long routes: On long routes, the variety of situations encountered calls for more versatile quickdraws. Consider longer slings to better manage the pull and full-finger carabiners for better handling with fatigue.
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Ice or mixed climbing: For these environments, it's best to choose quickdraws with full-finger carabiners for easier use with gloves. In addition, straps should be treated for water resistance to prevent freezing.
3. Other considerations
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Weight: Weight is an important factor, especially for high-performance climbing where every gram counts. Compare the weight of different quickdraws, bearing in mind that the lighter they are, the more expensive they can be.
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Durability: Evaluate carabiner construction and webbing quality. A sturdy quickdraw can be a better investment in the long run, especially if you climb frequently.
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Certifications and standards: Make sure your quickdraws meet current safety standards (UIAA or CE standards). This guarantees that the equipment has been tested and approved to meet strict safety criteria.
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Ergonomics and design: Carabiner ergonomics, shape and ease of opening are crucial. Some quickdraws offer features such as safety indicators that show if the carabiner is not properly closed.
The choice of quickdraws should be carefully considered, taking into account your specific climbing style and personal needs. By equipping yourself with the right quickdraws, you optimize not only your safety but also your performance. Don't hesitate to seek advice from experienced climbers or professionals in specialized stores to make the best possible choice.
