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1. Understanding the different types of belay devices
Belay devices fall into two main categories: nuts and friends. Each type has specific applications and advantages, depending on the type of rock and the nature of the crack.
Wire rope clamps: These clamps consist of a metal block of various shapes, with a wire rope running through it. They are lightweight, inexpensive and effective in narrow, regular cracks. Their simplicity makes them highly durable and reliable. They come in a variety of shapes (symmetrical, asymmetrical, double-pointed) to suit different crack configurations.
Mechanical wedges (or friends): More sophisticated, friends feature a cam mechanism that allows the wedge to actively adjust to the width of the crack. They are particularly useful in irregular, splayed cracks where a rope clamp would not fit stably. Their use requires more practice for effective installation, but their versatility makes them a popular choice among experienced climbers.
2. Selecting size and material
Selecting the right size of wedge is essential to effectively cover the different crack widths you'll encounter.
Size: It's advisable to have a set of belay clamps covering a wide range of sizes. For rope clamps, this generally means having sizes ranging from very small to very large. For friends, many brands offer slightly overlapping sizes, enabling more precise coverage of different crack widths.
Material: The material of the stoppers affects both their weight and strength. Aluminum alloys are common, offering a good balance between lightness and durability. Some high-end hangers use composite materials or special alloys to further reduce weight or increase strength.
3. Practical considerations when choosing belay devices
Reliability and safety: Choosing anchors from recognized brands is crucial to guaranteeing reliability and safety. Certification standards (such as UIAA or CE) are indicators of the quality and safety of climbing equipment.
Versatility and specialization: Consider the environment in which you climb most often. For example, low-profile belayers are better suited to shallow cracks. Similarly, some friends are designed for particularly difficult placements.
Training and practice: The best way to maximize the safety and effectiveness of your belay devices is to be properly trained in their use. Taking part in climbing workshops or adventure climbing courses can be very beneficial.
In conclusion, choosing the right belay devices for climbing requires an understanding of your specific needs, rock conditions and skill level. Investing in a diverse, high-quality set of belayers will enable you to climb with confidence, knowing that your safety is assured by reliable equipment. Whether you opt for cable belayers for fine cracks or friends for more complex placements, the key is to select equipment suited to your climbing style and the challenges you wish to meet.
